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Storz Bars

I tried the Gen Mars to take the pressure off the wrists (to reduce the buzz effect) and that helped a little, but I could not imagine riding all day on it.  Off went the Gen Mars.   I went with the Storz handle bar option with a pair of steel ape hangers (there are tons of shapes/lengths/sizes to choose from) to raise me up further to a more upright position and take all the pressure off my wrists.  I only needed a new front brake line, all other lines were stock.  I am very pleased with the results.  The buzz is gone and I have no fatigued wrist, back or neck problems.   I am told that steel does not transmit as much vibration as the aluminum bars.  I don't know if that is true but the Storz solution with steel bars is like night and day compared to the Gen Mar option.  I didn't notice a difference in the handling (the steel bars are more flexible and they move center mass higher) but then again the only way I'll  scrap a peg is if I dropped it.

Some may scoff at the idea of a more upright riding position on a Connie but it was the difference between keeping and selling for me.

This give you an idea of cable routing.  You can see
the clutch cable coming up and out to the left side of bike center, and left of the 2 throttle cables. You may want custom cables to clean up the bar/dash area.  Once I settle on a set of bars I plan on replacing the cables and hoses.

In addition to the Storz, I installed steel ape hangers that are 28" wide, have an 8" rise, and pull back about 7".  If you measure from the flat plate that the stock bars bolt to, to the top of the bars it is a 10" rise. Obviously there are lots of bar options to meet your ergo needs.   I am really comfy with this set up.  A lot of websites have bars for sale in the $40-60 range.  I went to the local motorcycle salvage yard with a tape measure and an idea of general measurements.  I found 4 that looked interesting, one worked cost was $10.  In the process of searching for the
bars I salvaged a front brake line that was about 5 inches longer than stock, cost was $5.

 

As you can see I have not installed a grip on the left grip.  I am waiting to put some more miles on the bike before I decide to go with standard grips (w/o weighted bar ends) or to cut another pair of grips to accommodate bar ends. At this point I am leaning to the standard grips without bar ends.  I am not finding the need for additional dampening.

 

Here is a picture of my modified riding position.  As you can see it is upright with little pressure on the wrists. I have the ability to shift farther back or forward to adjust comfort.  In this picture the peg lowering brackets are installed.  Rider's gear not typical when riding.
 
I was feeling the buzz come on just over 3500 and by 4000 it was too much, so somewhere in the low 60's mph was the effective tolerable top end for the bike.  Since the upgrade I have done some riding in the 65-70 range and have been very pleased with the results.  I have not noticed any change in vibration at different speeds.  At least up to 65-70 it is essentially non existent or at least not annoying.   So I think there are two things going on -- 1) I have a more upright riding position so there is not the pressure on bars, 2) I think there is less vibration being transmitted to the bars. I'll keep the Storz option, it really made a difference for me.

Step By Step...

  • Remove seat and gas tank
  • Remove handle bar controls from the bars (leave them attached to the bike), then remove stock bars from the bike.
  • Remove the plastic cover just below where you insert the key.
  • Loosely install the Storz mount, but tighten the bars to the mount to test/select the bars (4 bolts). The flexibility in bar movement helps to re-attach cables.
  • Reinstall handlebar controls
  • If you need additional clutch length (this will depend on the bar height you have chosen) disconnect the clutch hose from the tubing (just under the front lip of the gas tank. Cut 3 zip ties holding the throttle cables and clutch tube. There should be two around the frame located just under the gas tank. The third is located next to your left ankle as you are seated on the bike.
  • Work the slack out of the clutch tube by pulling upwards and towards the front of the bike ~ 1-2". You may want to disconnect the clutch hose from the metal tube at this point. Directionally bend it as needed, be careful not to pinch the metal tubing. I have mine coming up next to the throttle controls, in front of the gas tank left of center. Currently it goes in front of the bars. With the bars I chose, I could keep the stock clutch hose by taking slack out of the system and bringing the hose up behind the bars, if needed re-attach the clutch cable and bleed it.
  • Re-route the throttle controls to come up behind the handle bars. Stock has them coming up in front of the bars. Mine come up in front of the gas tank, but behind the bars, left of center.
  • Depending on bar height, you will need to install the new brake line and bleed the brakes.
  • Most likely you will have to re-route the starter wires and turn signal wires. This is not difficult and there was plenty of opportunity to lengthen the reach. In some cases it is easier to find the connection point, disconnect them, re-route them, then re-connect.
  • Tighten down the mount and bar clamps 8 bolts, install gas tank and grips.

 

Article By: Jon Lindberg

Updated January 2005

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