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Changing Your Oil And Filter

Just how much can you say about changing your oil. Well, here's a few tips gathered from personal grief and other sources.

Facts and Figures:
  • Capacity: 2.7 liters without changing filter;
  •                3.0 liters when filter is changed
  • When re-installing drain plug, torque to 13 ft. lbs.
  • When re-installing filter, torque to 14.5 ft. lbs.
  • Change interval 6,000 miles / 10,000 kilometers
  • Filter required : Kawasaki P/N 16099-003 / Honda 15410-426-010 / Fram ( yech ! ) CH6012

The details:

  • When removing the lower body plastic, be sure to keep track of the various screws since there are 3 different sizes on each side.
  • There are two drain plugs; make sure you get them both or you risk overfilling your crankcase when you put your new oil in.
  • Apparently the drain plugs hole can have their threads stripped fairly easily so I follow the recommended torque spec's noted above.
  • My Connie is currently loosing a few drops of oil per day from the drain plugs. I found that the crush washers have a shorter life span than I thought. This may also have been from the garage ape over-tightening the drain plugs. This was only its 4th change since new. I'll buy a couple extra washers next time and change them at least every second oil change; the peace of mind will be worth it.
  • Kawasaki stock filters do not come with a new O-ring. I didn't replace mine on the last oil change but I will on the next.

Yes, it is easier to get at the drain plugs and filter this way, but it's not the method prescribed by Big K.

On my next bike I'm getting two side stands.

Article By: David J. Morrow

Updated January 2005 

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