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Home Made Light Bar

I currently  have my Hella fog lights mounted on the sides of my fairing where the stock reflectors were. They're up high which gives me good conspicuity which is what I want. The problem is, if the bike ever goes over, I'm sure the lights will touch down first and shatter that very expensive plastic they call home.

I like the Ronnie Lyons light bar, ; it looks like the quality is A1, but  at $89 U.S., it was a bit more than I could justify. I let my mind work on the problem for a while. I came up with what I thought was a good workable solution and a jig to bend some tubing. As I searched my pile of bits and pieces, a slightly different idea fell into place. Materials should cost all of about $10 - 20

Start with a piece of 5/8" aluminum U-channel from Home Depot. I cut the ends at a bit of an angle to fit just inside the fairing. The max length should be about 10 1/2". Drill the holes 9 1/2" apart. I drilled mine a little oversize to leave me a little slack in getting it all to line up.

Next, cut the 7/8" O.D. aluminum tubing to length. I ended up at about 21" for the Hella FF50's. A plumber's copper pipe cutter works well on aluminum. Start a bit on the long side. It's easier to cut a bit more off later than to add some on. Don't you just hate it when that happens.

Drill the holes in the tubing about 9 1/2" apart to line up with the U-channel holes. The mounting bolts will go through the tubing, then through the U-channel, and into the fairing mounting holes.

Note that you don't have to weld this together. Once you run the bolts through the tubing and U-channel into the bike, it will all stay together nice and snug. I'm going to add a little blue Lock-Tite just to be safe.
 

I made up a "T" shaped wiring harness for power. The ground wire off the lights can go to the light bar and ground there.

If you want to make the wiring a little cleaner, drill three 3/8" holes and run the wire inside the light bar with grommets protecting the insulation at the exits.
 

In order to mount my lights, I just drilled the light bar with a 1/4" drill. 

Home Depot should also have a cap or plug you could put in the end to tidy things up a bit. And maybe a bit of dirt to make it blend in a bit better. The tube can probably be shortened an inch or two.

The mounting bolts are M6 x 60 for the bar.
 

Be sure to order the Hella light guards. 
Caution: While I have never experienced interference between the light bar and the front fender, at least one rider has. I have no details of his parts or installation. So, remember, it is up to you to be sure that no problems exists. 

So, just how well does this setup work. Ask Al Gearhart. 

"Thanks for all the help... got it done this evening... then went for a quick ride to see how much difference it would make... WOW ! ! ! Really fills in the whole area in front of the bike, all the way out to the limits of the head light, and then some... almost like driving in a fog when you shut them off... I plan on having my wife take the car out and see how it looks as far as blinding the other drivers... they are mounted low, but OH SO BRIGHT ! Thanks for the cheep solution for mounting - I have probably struggled with the mounting placement for over a year."

This is the Hella FF50 2.5"H x 4.6"W x 3.7"D

According to Hella :

Available in a Fog or a Driving Pattern
From the mounting surface to the bottom of the lamp is 3". May be mounted upright or pendant. From the center of the mounting bolt to the front of the lamp is 1 1/4" or 2 1/4" depending on the orientation of the bracket. The lens is tempered glass, the reflector is magnesium and the shell is ABS plastic. The mounting bracket attaches to the reflector, not the shell, so this is a very stable, very light package. Uses a 55W H7 bulb.
 

One downside to this mount is that every time you adjust the valves or have to remove the plastic for any reason, the light bar has to come off too. 

I'm going to find a Posi-tite connector made by Swenco. It's a Posi-lock connector that is water tight. Since the lights ground to the bar, there's no need to disconnect that part of the wiring.
 

Update: After busting the lens of my FF50, I decided to go with the FF100. It's 6.07" wide and 3.14" high. I also bought the clear plastic light guards. Since I had cut my light bar to the shortest length that I could get away with when I mounted the FF50's, it was a tiny bit too short for the FF100's. It was a simple matter of reversing the Hella FF100's mount. That moved the light forward and gave me the clearance with the fairing that I needed. The additional clearance should provide some insurance against fairing damage in case of a tip over.

Article By: David J. Morrow

Updated March 2005 

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