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Hella 1100 Fog Lights

Now, maybe Bambi will think I'm a Kenworth and just get the hell out of the way.

The instructions that come with the lights suggest mounting them as far apart as possible. They certainly seem to stand out more if it's conspicuity that you're after like me.

I made simple mounts for each side and put them where the factory reflectors bolt on.

I spent a bit of time trying to find just the right lights for my Concours. First part of the debate was driving vs fog lights. I chose fog. I wanted something that was generally DOT legal and could be left on day or night without being offensive to oncoming drivers, and of course had to be small.

Next, I looked at brand names. I figured that well known names were more likely to be legal than the no name brands.

Of course price was a consideration too. I ended up with Hella Optilux Model 1100 projector clear fog lamps. The PIAA's are nice but not at 4 times the price. My Hella's were only $65 Canadian (about $43 U.S.) which turned out to be cheaper than the no name lights at Crappy Tire.

The kit comes with:

  • 2 lights, switch, relay & wire.
  • I replaced the switch with a waterproof one.
  • 40mm Projector Fog Lens, SAE compliant, Black
  • Die-cast Metal Housing, 2.8"w x 4"d x 2.64"h
  • The 35mm film canister gives a sense of just how small these lights really are.
These little suckers were off & on like a whores drawers before I was done. This is what happened.

This was my first attempt.

At first I went through great efforts to mount them under the headlight, going as far as to make up my own frame with stainless steel U-bolts and aluminum. I found that there were always interference problems either with the speedo cable, the steering moving left to right, or from the fork protectors. Off they came. If you really like this method, see John O'Neils mounts

For my second attempt, I just mount them under the headlight with the inspection cover screws. With fog lights, there is a very distinct horizontal light cutoff line. Mounting to the fairing below the headlight meant that cutoff was angled and the lights could never be properly aimed. Off they came. No pictures of the second attempt since it was such a no-brainer. Sorry Robb.

This 1" wide aluminum came from Home Depot. I cut it to 4" long and drilled 1/4" holes, 1" from each end.

I temporarily bolted a fender washer on to act as a template, and ground the end nice and round.

Next, I put it in the vice with exactly 1" sticking up. Then, with the end of a short piece of 2x4 against the aluminum, I gave it a few careful whacks with a hammer until it was bent at about the correct angle. It's a bit under 90 degrees.

Test the mount on the fairing, check the side to side level, and re-bend as necessary. This is critical in order to have a horizontal cut off line. Fore & aft level isn't as important as the lights can be adjusted independently for up & down.

The mounts you see here are actually cut to 3 1/2" but will be replaced with 4" models. The black between the mount and the fairing is RTV. I put that in there to protect the fairing and hopefully to stop the mount from rolling forward or backwards.

On the inside of the fairing, I used Nylock nuts and a fender washer. ( A fender washer is a large washer with a small hole.) I suppose a grommet would have been nice where the wires ran through the plastic but I don't think chafe will be a problem. I put a little RTV on the allen screw which mounts the lights to their mounts. My theory is it should stop them from vibrating loose and Lock-Tite may be a bit much especially as I continue to fiddle with the mounts and aiming the lights.

The next mounts may get some black paint as well. Sure wouldn't want anyone thinking that shiny stuff was chrome.

I mounted the relay on the tab behind the right side of the battery. I'll wrap the terminals with electrical tape when I'm done to provide a little weather protection and to keep them from vibrating off.

Next comes the wiring. I just followed the instructions that came with the lights. The switch that came with the lights was not meant for a wet environment so I got a Cole Hersee waterproof switch.

 Article By: David J. Morrow

August 2001 

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