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Adding Gauges

What you will need for the gauge install.

1. Gauges, buy good quality, I am beginning to think that quality gauges would have been better as my needles vibrate a little.  I was unable to find aesthetically pleasing gauges with quality in 1.5". I'd go with quality next time and not worry about matching factory much. Wish I had VDO gauges. 2-1/16" would be useable w/modification of the template.

2. A sheet of .100's aluminum.  Size to fit your skill level. In case you need to make other attempts, I did my attempts on cardboard then went to aluminum luckily only 1 attempt on aluminum, however the key hole is not perfect as you can see.

3. 4 feet of copper line.

4. The 1/8" plastic line that may come with the gauges.

5. 1/4" NPT  elbow.

6. Part number 57001-1188 from Big K.  (Optional method of picking up oil pressure.)

7 (1)--1/8" union to tie plastic and copper lines together

8. Hole saw, jig saw or better.

9. 18ga wire to hook up voltmeter.

10. The edging you see on the picture is from a surplus store it is the same stuff that is used on the edges of industrial seats.  So far the best surround I have found.

11. Need also 1.5" screws to replace the factory triple tree screws as these proved to short.  I think they were 6 mm but possibly 5.

For rigidity there should be the screws on the bottom to bolt the aluminum to the triple tree cover.  Any 1/2" long bolt will do.  I had 1/4" here so I used that, works well but doesn't match the ones above. 

I get no vibrations from the cover and this has appeared to quiet those coming from the cover before.

Part #57001-1188 is to run from the oil passage way adapter on the left side of the engine under the timing cover.

NOTE!! if you would like to run the line from the oil pressure sender on the bottom of the block, you will need Autometer part number 2269 (converts the bikes BSPT to NPT) along with a tee available from NAPA and an extra foot of copper line, the adapter, with shipping  will cost about $12.  My Napa didn't have this on hand so I went to big K and asked for part number 57001- 1188.  They didn't have one but they did have a 57001-1278? there that I was able to use. The part is listed in the repair manual on page 6-5.  Cost $21  It is 1/4 inch pipe thread but not tapered.

From there I was able to elbow it with parts from Menards, do not use a street elbow, as this is too large.  Use the one from menards, you will still have to take off the timing cover in order to turn it. 

Remember to teflon all connections except the fitting into the block as that is a rubber O-ring seal. 

From the elbow, reduce down to 1/8" tube and then run your copper line inside the fairing and around inside the upper fairing and then put your union on top of the access panel. Reason.  I was unable to use anything but the plastic line from there that would flex enough and not cause undo stress on the gauge and wouldn't bind in the steering. 

As some of you may recall I was going to use braided hose from there to the gauge but with the amount of range of movement turning the bars  it just wasn't feasible. I also was suggested to use a grease gun hose, still not flexible enough.

So far this install has worked out very well.  Better gauges, more accurate center hole and the definitive answer on the flexible hose would be almost perfect Use at your own risk.

Reason for union over the access panel.  As you know the plastic line, over time, will eventually fail.  I have an extra hose all made up and ready to be used and installed in about 15 minutes on the road if need be, access panel allows easy access.

NOTE include the 5/16" and 3/8" wrench into your tool kit so you can do road side repairs if needed, and you have a spare hose, I don't recommend not having a spare hose.  I am considering getting a cap should I really have an unforeseen failure of greater proportions.

Email me if you have any questions.

Well after only one season of the harsh environment of the motorcycle, the gauges tanked. Both of them destroyed themselves to the point they disconnected from the needles. I have come up with a better solution. I now have 2-1/16 gauges to replace them. I learned and used Autometer gauges. I now have :

  • Voltmeter
  • Oil Temp
  • Oil Press
  • Vacuum
The mounting is much simpler and installation is straight forward. Special items for motorcycle include. Replacing the front drain plug with an adapter to mount the temp sensor. I can't remember the exact size right now. Its either M12x1 or M14x1 to 1/8. Available from Autometer also. CAUTION do not over tighten the brass adapter. I thought I stripped the hole, turned out I snapped the adapter. Had to get another. It CANNOT handle the recommended torque of the drain plug. The oil pressure gauge is electric. Mostly for reliability, and ease of mounting. My previous post outlines the items needed to adapt the oil press sensor to the Connie.

Article By: Todd Rice

Updated January 2002

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