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Fuse Panel

Version 1

 I was going to buy a Power Plate from Electrical Connection but found this automotive circuit breaker & fuse panel at the local auto parts store. It was about $25 Cdn (about $15 US) - about 1/4 the cost of the Power Plate. It's from Cole Hersee Co. and is part number 46377-6. They make lots of other neat electrical stuff too; they don't appear to sell direct though.
I didn't want a lot of accessories wired directly to the battery each with it's own inline fuse tucked somewhere under the plastic. Besides not liking inline fuses, this is a really clean and simple installation. I'm going to rewire what few accessories I do have and get rid of the remaining inline fuses. While there is no relay on this panel, it would be easy to add one so that it only powered up when the engine was running.

I may add a bus bar for grounding the circuits as well. Finding a ground on the Connie is a lot tougher than on a car. Besides, centralizing may make troubleshooting a bit easier.

The relay that you see to the left is for the Hella fog lights. It conveniently mounts to a pre-drilled tab on the fender.

This panel was quite easy to mount. I always use stainless steel fasteners and Nylock nuts whenever possible. There are a couple of holes already available on the right side of the battery box. I enlarged one and put the bottom machine screw in place and put the nylock nut on the inside. It just fits inside the battery box recess so shouldn't chafe on the battery. Once I snugged the nut down, I ran the drill through the upper hole in the fuse panel, through the battery box and installed the second machine screw. The panel has room for four, but two should be plenty.

When I wired in my Hella fog lights last year, I found that finding a good ground location was kind of a pain. A while ago I bought a bus bar for present and future grounds but couldn't think of a proper place to mount it. Well, I finally had a moment of inspiration and here it is. And what better place than right next to the fuse panel. 

I used a piece of 3/16" Lexan. Almost anything could be used -  other rigid plastics or maybe aluminum. I happened to have the Lexan on hand and I could cut it on my table saw. Then it was just a matter of drilling the holes and peeling off the paper. 

The bolts running through the fuse panel go through the Lexan and then through the battery box as described above.

Version 2, November 2002

And there you have it but with a different bus bar than shown above.
You can see that the panel has gotten a little dirty and it has a tiny bit of corrosion from all that Newfoundland salt air. So, this is a good time to tiddly things up a bit and also put a little dielectric grease on the connections.

Next job will be to straighten out some of my errant wiring jobs. 

The relay seen here is for the fog lights. It would be easy to add a relay so that the panel is only powered up when the bike is running.

The next one I make will be about 1 1/2" wider. There's lots of room for it.

Version 3, March 2003
 This masterpiece was built by Dave Cavanaugh. Better let Dave explain this one himself:

The left relay powers the fuse block from the battery. The right relay powers the driving lights. There are mounting studs for 2 more relays below the first ones, but things would get kind of messy at that point. 

I originally used a regular terminal strip for the grounds as you did, but then found the buss bar.  It makes for a cleaner installation.  

Everything is mounted on a piece of aluminum plate bolted to the battery box.  I split a piece of vinyl tubing and attached it to the top edge to prevent chafing.  

I generally used green or white for the grounds, and red or black for hot leads.  Dave C

Article By: David J. Morrow

Updated January 2005 

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